David Webb, From the Zebra Bracelet to the Pearl Strand Necklace: Where to Start

David Webb founded his namesake jewelry firm in New York in 1948, after working on 47th Street, the city's jewelers' row. On the brand's history page, the house traces its bold forms, richly textured gold, and graphic enamelwork to a design language shaped by sources from Etruscan art to Art Deco.

 

I like how that history moves between playful animal forms, sculpted gold, and luminous materials. Each grid below is one David Webb collection, so I can go straight to the line I care about. I start with the current Seasonal Hues selection, then move through animals, gold, pearls, and rock crystal. For another read on the house, I also liked David Webb Jewelry: Bold Gold Earrings, Bangles and Chains.

David Webb's Seasonal Hues selection gives the current campaign a clear starting point, with sculptural drop earrings against dark green. The brand's homepage lists Garland Earrings, Moonstone under Seasonal Hues, so I begin with that piece.

 

I picked four pieces: Garland Earrings, Moonstone; Scroll Cuff, Black Enamel; Radiator Hoop Earrings, Diamonds and Black Enamel; and Small Octagonal Buckle Ring, Black Enamel. A practical tip: I would let the earrings or cuff lead and keep the rest simple. What I would skip is layering every dark enamel shape at once.

David Webb's Animal Motifs collection carries the house's animal jewelry history. The official history says the first animal bracelet appeared in 1957, and David Webb received the 1964 Coty Award for his animal jewelry.

 

I picked four pieces: Tiger Stripe Crescent Earring; Rope Lane Bracelet with Zebra Stripe; Zebra Stripe Oval Buckle Ring, Black Enamel; and Cubist Zebra Stripe Ring, Light Blue. A practical tip: I would choose one striped piece and leave the rest of my jewelry simple. What I would skip is stacking several animal motifs together, since each one already makes a clear statement.

David Webb's Kingdom collection brings together creatures that fly, crawl, swim, or run. The brand dates its first animal bracelet to 1957, and that makes Kingdom a natural next stop after Animal Motifs.

 

I picked eight pieces: Zebra Bracelet; Tiger Ring; Snake Ring, Green Enamel; Twin Frog Bracelet, Black Enamel, Emerald; Bird of Paradise Brooch; Sea Lion Brooch; Horse Ring, White Enamel, Emerald; and Giraffe Spot Crescent Moon Earrings. A practical tip: I would start with a ring or brooch if I want a motif near the hand or lapel, then choose one bracelet when I am ready for more scale. What I would skip is pairing several animal silhouettes in one look.

The Textured Gold collection centers the house's sculpted gold. David Webb describes his 1960s design language as bold forms and richly textured gold, inspired by sources including Etruscan art and Art Deco.

 

I picked eight pieces: Bent Nail Link Bracelet, Hammered 18K Gold; Diamond Nail Ring, Hammered 18K Gold; Ruby Pipe Ring, Hammered 18K Gold; Turquoise Pipe Ring, Hammered 18K Gold; Oval Link Earrings, Hammered Gold; XO Earrings, Hammered 18K Gold; Twisted Nail Cuff, Hammered 18K Gold; and Diamond Tip Infinity Nail Earrings, Hammered 18K Gold. A practical tip: I would pair one textured bracelet with a clean ring, or bring texture near my face with earrings. What I would skip is repeating the nail motif in every accessory.

David Webb's All Gold collection shifts the focus to gold's shapes and finish. The house includes textured gold adorned with diamonds among its designs for daily wear, and this group moves between linked forms and sculptural cuffs.

 

I picked eight pieces: Madison Double Square Earrings; Anchor Link Necklace; Lane Bracelet, Hammered 18K Gold; Carrier Earrings; Double Scroll Step Ring, Diamonds; Scallop Cuff, Hammered; Repoussé Monkey Cuff; and Triple Rope Ring, Ruby. A practical tip: I would start with the earrings or the Triple Rope Ring, Ruby, then add one bracelet. What I would skip is treating a necklace, cuff, ring, and earrings as a matching set, since the different shapes have more room to stand out on their own.

David Webb's Twilight collection brings together pearls and rock crystal, which the house describes as luminous alongside diamonds. The brand says Webb thought pearls should be as big as lima beans, and this collection reflects the generous scale he favored.

 

I picked eight pieces: Crossover Pearl and Diamond Ring; Fleur De Lis South Sea Pearl Necklace; Pearl Strand Necklace; Pearl Necklace; Hutton Ring, Rock Crystal; Olympus Cuff, Rock Crystal; Gatsby Crystal Bracelet; and Crystal Tank Bracelet. A practical tip: I would let one pearl necklace lead and add a rock crystal ring or cuff as a second note. What I would skip is layering several substantial necklaces at once.

I would start with the Zebra Bracelet for the house's animal language, then explore the Pearl Strand Necklace when I want a softer contrast. David Webb's official history notes that the Zebra Bracelet entered the Metropolitan Museum of Art's permanent collection in 2018, which makes it a fitting point of entry.

 

For a gift, I would choose earrings before a ring or bracelet when fit is uncertain. For care, I would keep pearls and carved stone away from perfume and household cleaners, wipe pieces gently with a soft cloth after wearing, and ask the house or a qualified jeweler about any repair. That is where I would start with David Webb.