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Courrèges

Ian Griffiths built Max Mara's spring collection on the utility wardrobe, with storm-flap trenches, hunting gilets and wide belts on more than half the looks. It is a show about clothes you actually use.
Read EditorialIan Griffiths built Max Mara's spring collection on the utility wardrobe, with storm-flap trenches, hunting gilets and wide belts on more than half the looks. It is a show about clothes you actually use.
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The part of the collections that survives an ordinary week. Shop 240 runway-to-real pieces from Loro Piana, Alaïa and The Row, $240 to $14,000.
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Colleen Allen trained in menswear, worked under Raf Simons at Calvin Klein and designed at The Row, then launched her own womenswear label in February 2024. Within two years she had a CFDA nomination, an LVMH Prize finalist spot and a front row that included Charli XCX and Greta Lee. The clothes are tailored with menswear rigour and cut with something much stranger in mind.

Giorgio Armani spring 2027 is Silvana Armani's quiet rearrangement of her uncle's house, with more than half the looks trousers or jumpsuits. I go through the jackets, from herringbone jersey to reversible shearling.

The runway is where the ideas start, and the best of them make it into real wardrobes. This season the shapes are more wearable than dramatic, with a clear focus on craft. This edit translates the collections into pieces you can put on this week.

The Cult Gaia Kadia dress is a black knit from Behesht, Jasmin Larian Hekmat's Spring 2027 collection. I walk through the collection, which she built around grief and celebration, with bags, dresses, skirts and tops.
Drew Henry makes his Courrèges debut just weeks into the job, with undone belts, odd hats and chalky pastels. Trousers appear in most looks, and the mood is warmer than the house is used to.

Ulla Johnson staged her spring show under the Brooklyn Bridge overpass and left something behind that outlasts fifteen minutes. The clothes are pastel, hand-painted and sheer, and about a third of the looks carry a floral.
Read EditorialUlla Johnson staged her spring show under the Brooklyn Bridge overpass and left something behind that outlasts fifteen minutes. The clothes are pastel, hand-painted and sheer, and about a third of the looks carry a floral.
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Tory Burch built her spring collection around opulent femininity with a utilitarian twist, and a good dose of humor. Bags appeared in most looks, and the surfaces were worked to the last bead.

Sportmax answered rising temperatures by cutting the arms off outerwear and layering barely-there organza. Bags appeared in most looks, many of them in a punchy orange, and the whole show felt breezy.

Rachel Scott's second runway collection for Proenza Schouler feels looser, freer and far more sure of itself. Bags appeared in more than half the looks, led by a reworked PS1.

Alberto Caliri builds a Missoni collection about movement rather than destination, inspired by how Rosita Missoni traveled. A hat topped most looks, and the geometry loosened, frayed and glinted.
Fendi Spring 2027 by Maria Grazia Chiuri was staged inside a box of mirrors, and almost half the looks were all black. I break it down look by look, with about half carrying a bag.

Etro Spring 2027 is called Halo, an aura of paisleys and fabrics floating around the woman, with maxi lengths in nearly half the looks. I go through the dresses, the tailoring that keeps it honest, and the jackets.

Erdem Spring 2027 is a love letter to Barbette, the trapeze performer who dazzled audiences in the 1920s and 1930s. I go through the dresses, shirts and blouses, and bags.

Emporio Armani Spring 2027 was a presentation that swept from white to black through green, gray and greige, with trousers in nearly every look. I go through the trousers, the jackets and the quiet way the chapter closes.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2027 was Wes Gordon's tribute to the founder's signatures for the house's 45th anniversary. Bags appeared in nearly half the looks, and I sorted the dresses and the retold white shirt into things to shop.

Brunello Cucinelli's Spring 2027 collection hides serious technique behind clothes that look like they fell into place. Raffia, crochet and denim get the careful treatment, and about half the looks carry a bag.

Brandon Maxwell returned to the runway after a season away with a collection of black, white, red, khaki, and gray, and not a single print. Trousers and belts showed up in more than half the looks.

Louise Trotter's third Bottega Veneta show was about taking layers off as winter turns to spring. Three in four looks carried a bag, and the coats came first.

Jonathan Anderson's Dior made the Bar jacket and the circle skirt almost transparent for a hotter world. Nearly every look carried a bag, which says a lot about where the house is headed.