Designers

Max Mara Spring 2027: What You Want in Your Daily Life

Max Mara Spring 2027: What You Want in Your Daily Life

Ian Griffiths built Max Mara's spring collection on the utility wardrobe, with storm-flap trenches, hunting gilets and wide belts on more than half the looks. It is a show about clothes you actually use.

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Courrèges Spring 2027: What the Softer Side Could Be

Drew Henry makes his Courrèges debut just weeks into the job, with undone belts, odd hats and chalky pastels. Trousers appear in most looks, and the mood is warmer than the house is used to.

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Ulla Johnson Spring 2027: Pastels, Sheers and Poplin

Ulla Johnson Spring 2027: Pastels, Sheers and Poplin

Ulla Johnson staged her spring show under the Brooklyn Bridge overpass and left something behind that outlasts fifteen minutes. The clothes are pastel, hand-painted and sheer, and about a third of the looks carry a floral.

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Etro Spring 2027: Etro with the Volume Turned Down

Etro Spring 2027: Etro with the Volume Turned Down

Etro Spring 2027 is called Halo, an aura of paisleys and fabrics floating around the woman, with maxi lengths in nearly half the looks. I go through the dresses, the tailoring that keeps it honest, and the jackets.

Erdem Spring 2027: It Was Always About a Duality

Erdem Spring 2027: It Was Always About a Duality

Erdem Spring 2027 is a love letter to Barbette, the trapeze performer who dazzled audiences in the 1920s and 1930s. I go through the dresses, shirts and blouses, and bags.

Emporio Armani Spring 2027: Traces of Time

Emporio Armani Spring 2027: Traces of Time

Emporio Armani Spring 2027 was a presentation that swept from white to black through green, gray and greige, with trousers in nearly every look. I go through the trousers, the jackets and the quiet way the chapter closes.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2027: Hailing a Cab on Park Avenue

Carolina Herrera Spring 2027: Hailing a Cab on Park Avenue

Carolina Herrera Spring 2027 was Wes Gordon's tribute to the founder's signatures for the house's 45th anniversary. Bags appeared in nearly half the looks, and I sorted the dresses and the retold white shirt into things to shop.

Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2027: Making Virtuosity Disappear

Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2027: Making Virtuosity Disappear

Brunello Cucinelli's Spring 2027 collection hides serious technique behind clothes that look like they fell into place. Raffia, crochet and denim get the careful treatment, and about half the looks carry a bag.

Brandon Maxwell Spring 2027: The Word Honest Is What Comes to Mind

Brandon Maxwell Spring 2027: The Word Honest Is What Comes to Mind

Brandon Maxwell returned to the runway after a season away with a collection of black, white, red, khaki, and gray, and not a single print. Trousers and belts showed up in more than half the looks.

Bottega Veneta Spring 2027: De-Robing Into Spring

Bottega Veneta Spring 2027: De-Robing Into Spring

Louise Trotter's third Bottega Veneta show was about taking layers off as winter turns to spring. Three in four looks carried a bag, and the coats came first.

Dior Spring 2027: Chiffon Reworks the Bar Jacket

Dior Spring 2027: Chiffon Reworks the Bar Jacket

Jonathan Anderson's Dior made the Bar jacket and the circle skirt almost transparent for a hotter world. Nearly every look carried a bag, which says a lot about where the house is headed.