Jewelry

Fiametta: Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry by Merill Hollander

Merill Hollander founded Fiametta in New York in 2023 after a career that started at Bloomingdale's buying desk and ran through a Wharton MBA. The label works exclusively in lab-grown diamonds and frames itself as a rewrite of fine jewelry's rulebook, drawing openly on Hollander's experience as a queer woman deciding which traditions to keep and which to drop.

Jia Jia Jewelry

Jia Jia was founded in February 2020 by Jia-Jia Zhu, a former fashion buyer at Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue who left retail to study yoga and crystals in Bali before turning that interest into a jewelry line. The brand's signature is raw, uncut and unpolished crystal set into 14k and 18k gold, a deliberately unfinished look that treats the stone as the whole point rather than something to be smoothed over.

Sylvia Toledano Jewelry

Sylvia Toledano grew up in Paris with a childhood spent partly in Africa, studied law, then trained in style and sculpture before launching her own jewelry line around 2007 or 2008. She calls her aesthetic neo-vintage, pieces handmade in patinated, textured gilded brass and set with semi-precious stones, and her boutique still sits near Place Vendôme on rue Danielle Casanova.

Marie Mas Jewelry

Marie Mas was founded in Paris in January 2017 by Marie Cabirou, who trained at the Ecole Duperre and the Institut Francais de la Mode before spending several years designing jewelry under Raf Simons at Christian Dior Couture. She named the house after her maternal grandmother, Henriette Mas, and built its identity around a patented technique that lets a stone physically swing between two settings, an idea she traces to watching Christmas tree worms move underwater.

KATKIM Jewelry

Katherine Kim launched KATKIM in New York in the fall of 2015 after training in graphic design in Pasadena and then jewelry at Central Saint Martins in London and the Fashion Institute of Technology. The brand is built around a single idea she developed at her kitchen table, the Ear Pin, a slim gold spear that threads through the piercing and locks behind the ear, since multiplied into diamond-paved and petite versions.

Emily P. Wheeler

Emily P. Wheeler started making beaded jewelry for her mother as a child on Southwest road trips with her architectural-photographer father, and introduced her fine jewelry line in 2017. She trained at the GIA as a colored-gemstone specialist, and it shows in a palette built around saturated stones rather than pure diamond sparkle

Eden Presley

Gwen Myers started making jewelry in New York as a way to fill the hours at home with three young children, and named the label after two of them, Eden and Presley. What began as pieces for herself and friends grew into informal jewelry parties before it turned into an actual wholesale business, hand-set gemstones in 14k gold with a bold, maximalist streak.

Sydney Evan Jewelry

Rosanne Karmes founded Sydney Evan in Los Angeles in 2001, naming it after her two children, Sydney and Evan, and her late father, Sy, after years working in fine jewelry manufacturing and running her own accessories showroom. She launched with a single pavé-diamond horseshoe necklace and diamond-set charm bracelets, a hard sell to retailers at first until Serena Williams wore a Sydney Evan moon pendant in InStyle and Neiman Marcus picked up the line in 2006.

Chan Luu Jewelry

Chan Luu started her namesake line in 1996 out of a Los Angeles garage, after two decades working retail floors and buying desks around the fashion industry. The label built its name on handmade jewelry produced with artisans in Vietnam and India, the kind of wrap bracelets and beaded pieces that made her a fixture on 2000s red carpets long before hers was a household name.

Ten Thousand Things Jewelry: 18K Gold Pieces From a New York Duo

Ron Anderson and David Rees, both self-taught jewelers who came out of fashion retail rather than formal design school, founded Ten Thousand Things in New York in 1991, taking their name from a line in the Tao Te Ching. The label helped bring personal, wearable fine jewelry back into fashion at a moment when magazines were dominated by oversized costume pieces, a shift cemented early when Kate Moss wore its small cross pearl earrings in her first Calvin Klein campaign in 1992. Here are some of my personal favorite items from the collection...

Ben-Amun

Isaac Manevitz, an Egyptian-born designer who had worked for costume houses like Trifari, started Ben-Amun in New York in 1980, naming it for his eldest son and the pharaoh Tutankhamun. The brand never pretended to be fine jewelry: it built its name on hand-finished pieces in electroplated gold, Czech glass and Majorca pearls, made to photograph and move like the real thing, which is exactly what got a Ben-Amun cuff onto Jackie Kennedy Onassis's wrist in 1989.

Moritz Glik Jewelry

Moritz Glik founded his eponymous jewelry line in New York in 2003, after leaving a shoe company he ran in his native Belo Horizonte, Brazil and teaching himself jewelry-making once he arrived in the city in 1991. His signature invention, the Kaleidoscope Shaker, encases loose, uncut gemstones inside capsules of white sapphire crystal and gold so the stones move freely

Lizzie Fortunato

Twin sisters Lizzie and Kathryn Fortunato started making jewelry as a Duke University side hustle in the early 2000s, then founded Lizzie Fortunato in 2008 from a Lower East Side apartment on the strength of a ten-thousand-dollar bonus check Kathryn handed her sister with instructions to follow her dreams.

Oscar de la Renta Dresses: The Designer's Story and Picks

Oscar de la Renta dresses come from a designer who left Santo Domingo at 18 to study painting in Madrid. I go through the dresses, from the Peony Faille midi to a floral-embroidered tulle mini halter, then the jewelry.

Jennifer Fisher Jewelry: From a Gold Dog Tag to Earrings

Jennifer Fisher was a stylist who made her first piece, a gold dog tag for her son, Shane, because nothing on the market matched her own style, then turned it into a line in 2006 after Uma Thurman wore one on a magazine cover. Notes on the hoops, bangles and necklaces built for daily wear.

Drop Earrings And Hoops

Drop earrings are the shape doing the most work this season, in three levels from statement to barely there. I sort the drops and hoops by how much movement you want, from rhinestone and pearl drops to plain hoops.

Carolina Bucci Jewelry: Florentine Gold Since 1885

Carolina Bucci is the fourth generation of a Florentine family that has worked in gold since 1885, when her great-grandfather opened a workshop to repair pocket watches. This edit moves from the bracelets through necklaces to the smaller rings and earrings that finish the range.

AGMES Jewelry

AGMES makes New York jewelry with the clarity of small sculpture, using clean lines, recycled metals and forms that feel closer to architecture than ornament. Sisters Morgan and Jaclyn Solomon founded the label in 2016, drawing on modernist art, urban settings and the idea of the modern heirloom. The pieces are distinctive without asking for a maximalist outfit around them.

A Dior Necklace Is The House Signature At Close Range

Dior necklaces range from Petit CD's small daily signature to statement charms and Oblique-inspired metalwork built for evenings. The house splits its costume jewelry cleanly between everyday pieces and occasion pieces rather than pretending they are the same product. This edit moves from the boldest statement necklaces down to the quieter chains meant to be worn and forgotten about.

A Dior Ring Is The Smallest Piece Of The House You Can Own

A Dior ring is the smallest piece of the house you can own, from the Dior Code set to the Dio(r)evolution and Medaillon rings. I walk through the Petit CD, Code and Clover pieces.

Alighieri Jewelry: Rosh Mahtani's Pieces Named for Dante

Alighieri jewelry began in London in 2014, when Rosh Mahtani set out to carve one piece for each canto of Dante's Divine Comedy. I walk through the necklaces and other pieces named for Dante.

Ananya Fine Jewelry: Chakra Bracelets and Colored Gemstones

Ananya makes fine jewelry around coloured gemstones, 18-karat gold and the idea that adornment can carry meaning as well as light. Founded by Ananya Malhotra, the London-based label draws on Indian jewelry traditions, Central Saint Martins training and gemological study to shape its Chakra and Scatter collections. The mood is vivid and personal, with every bracelet or ring asking to be worn as more than decoration.

Buccellati Jewelry

Buccellati’s story begins with Mario Buccellati, who opened his first enterprise in Milan in 1919 after apprenticing with local goldsmiths. His work interpreted Italian techniques through finely textured gold and an unusually sculptural sense of nature. Rings, cuffs, necklaces and earrings in this selection carry that workshop language forward.

Anita Ko Jewelry: 18-Karat Gold and Diamond Hoops

Anita Ko brings a distinctly Los Angeles ease to fine jewelry, pairing diamonds and 18-karat gold with hoops, bamboo motifs and clean shapes designed for daily wear. Ko launched her namesake label in 2006 after making jewelry from a young age, building a contemporary alternative to the more formal codes she saw around her. The result is polished, personal and meant to leave the house.