Designers

Blumarine Spring 2027: She Goes to California, Dates a Surfer

Blumarine spring 2027 is David Koma's California collection, with tulle and ruffles in more than a third of the looks. I walk through the gowns, the minidresses and the sharper jeans and trousers.

Tom Ford Spring 2027: Sexual, Louche, a Little Bit Dangerous

Tom Ford Spring 2027 was Haider Ackermann's show, played in near darkness behind glass, with sharp pinstripes, black leather and red cut-out gowns. I go through the sunglasses, the clothes underneath the provocation, and the pumps and loafers.

Simkhai Spring 2027: I Just Wanted to Try New Things

Simkhai spring 2027 is leather, knits and a lot of fringe, the opposite of what spring usually looks like. I go through the gowns, dresses, tops and skirts, and where the fringe shows up.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2027: Stravaganza Siciliana

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2027 is Stravaganza Siciliana, a mix of lace, tweed, leopard and florals instead of matching tanks and cutoffs. I go through how the two designers layer their own archive into it.

Dries Van Noten Spring 2027: A Real Star-Is-Born Moment

Dries Van Noten Spring 2027 is Julian Klausner's best collection for the house yet, with vintage movie posters turned into prints. More than half the looks carry a bag, and I go through the heels, coats, skirts and bags.

Maison Margiela Spring 2027: The Hard and the Soft

Maison Margiela Spring 2027 is Glenn Martens boiling the house down to its contradictions, more approachable but still opulent at heart. I go through the Tabi shoes, the normal clothes, jeans, brocade and cotton tape, and skirts.

Gucci Spring 2027: The Gucci Before Fashion

Gucci Spring 2027 was Demna's show staged inside a fake Gucci store, with equestrians, Milanese trench wearers and twisted preps in one room. A bag turned up on almost everyone, and I go through the bags, jackets, coats, loafers and boots.

Veronica Beard Spring 2027: Mega Femininity Season

Veronica Beard Spring 2027 is called The Secret Garden, and it pushes the label's femme agenda further with florals, lace and translucent layers. Trousers appeared in about half the looks, and I pick the jackets, dresses and pants I would keep.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2027: Milan Is Partying Again

Fausto Puglisi goes all-in on Cavalli nostalgia, spiking the house prints with a clubby edge. Animal print appears in most looks in a collection built for good times.

Alice + Olivia Spring 2027: The Season of the Dress

Stacey Bendet took Alice + Olivia down the rabbit hole with an Alice in Wonderland collection built with the help of AI. Floral showed up in more than a third of the looks, and she called it the season of the dress.

Monique Lhuillier Spring 2027: Modern, Dark Romance

Monique Lhuillier set out to strip back her fanciful evening world and found joy in draping. About a third of the looks were one-shoulder or off-the-shoulder, and the result was modern, dark romance.

McQueen Spring 2027: It's That Clashing of Things

Seán McGirr took McQueen to the undercroft of Lincoln's Inn Chapel and set Savile Row tailoring against ravewear and sabotaged gowns. Tailored jackets led the show.

Roksanda Spring 2027: Dresses-Slash-Tunics

Roksanda showed spring 2027 on the roof garden of the National Theatre, with painted scarves, braided threads and monumental gowns. Gloves appeared in more than a third of the looks, a detail I keep thinking about.

Altuzarra Spring 2027: What Was Once Hidden Becomes Visible

Joseph Altuzarra built his spring collection on the joy he found in a book of mid-century photographs, pairing biker jackets with delicate embellished layers. Black brogues showed up in most looks, a detail that keeps the whole thing grounded.

Marni Spring 2027: It's Sexy, But Absolutely Not Sexy

Meryll Rogge's second Marni collection edits the house rather than reinventing it, with raw calfskin, giant buckles and decoration on top of decoration. Nearly two thirds of the looks wore an open sandal.